Click for drawing by
Company on Deck detail and Ballast Bolt detail sent by Cheoy Lee (James
Lam) to Dave Seale
Following pasted from our Forum
Does anyone have any feedback on keel bolts in the Clipper 36 boats? What
material they were made of, and how to check them as they are buried in the fiberglass
water tanks, as well as under the engine, etc. I have a small gap at the hull/keel
joint on the outside of the hull. I have filled it with 5200 at last haul-out, but am
concerned about the bolts. It is really a major deal just to check then due to the
Anyone with experience in this area????? Please contact me at this address: firstname.lastname@example.org "Destiny" is just
completing a MAJOR refit/restoration and is
in Bristol condition.
||1/5/99 8:42 PM
Jim, I have started work on my bolts. I too was worried since there
was a gap between ballast and hull that leaked water for several days after hauling. I
ground out epoxy/cement mixture on bottom of ballast (where head of bolts were located)
and pulled the first bolt on the bow end.
Click to enlarge
The bolt did not show any signs of corrosion but I am planning to
pull the one in the bilge. If it shows no signs of corrosion I will not worry but then
again my clipper has spent her life in fresh water not salt. The material appears to be
soft steel (galvanized). You are correct that most cannot be gotten to unless you pull the
water tank which is glassed in place. james
submitted by Alvah Crocker
be interested to know that I have completed the renewal of the keel
bolts on my Cheoy Lee Clipper 36, "SUNSET SUE".
were as follows:
1- There were 12 Bolts ranging in length from approx 5 1/2" to 14
2- There IS one under the engine and this proved to be expensive for the
following reason: First the engine had to be removed, then the engine
pan. Under the pan was 8" of Concrete, under the Concrete was a
piece of IRON 8"x8"x29", under the Iron was another
8" of Concrete and then the bolt !!!!!
3- The only bolt that needed replacing was the one at the bow. It was
not covered and water running down bilge from anchor line and chain must
have corroded it.
4- 4-bolts were in water tank covered with glass caps. I used
existing tank openings to get at the two in the middle. At the ends of
the top I installed two new inspection covers so we could get at the
last two bolts.
5- Since the keel goes the full length of the bottom one has to chock
the hull w/keel, loosen bolts, then lower iron. You can not lift hull
off the iron since there is no place for straps to go except under iron.
6- once bolts were removed, some were placed back in the holes from the
bilge down to act as guides as the keel was lowered. This worked
Total job including limited engine rebuild ie new alternator, new
injector tips, new motor mounts etc came to approx $9000. I put
everything back pretty much the way it was. I used hot dipped galvanized
bolts. With the iron keel you have no other choice unless you want to
drill out the holes and put in a sleeve.
Hope this info will be of interest to other Clipper 36 owners.
Pulling Bolts on Frisco Flyer
Following pasted from
Hugh Lane wrote in message
Does anyone have experience with replacing iron keelbolts in a cast iron
keel? I have a 25' Frisco Flyer (Cheoy Lee).
Subject: Re: keel bolts
From: "Mike Goodwin" <email@example.com>
Its not difficult ,just hard work.
First block the boat high enough to remove the bolt from the bottom of keel.
Remove nut on inside of boat or cut off . Take a maul and start tapping .
drive it down even with keelson . Next take a metal rod the same size of
bolt and continue driving bolt on through keel ( you may have to dig a pit
under the keel if boat is not high enough ) Install new bolt then move on to
the next one etc.,etc. Be sure to use galvanized bolts and paint with red
lead if you can get it or at least zinc chromate primer as they go in ( it
cant hurt )
Frisco flyer is a beautiful little boat