Restoration Projects
Related to Cheoy Lee's

Treadmaster Installation

Replacing a teak deck with Treadmaster on a Perry 35

 I had been planning this job more or less since I bought the boat in 1999.  The teak was in very poor shape – badly toughed, with many plugs missing, and no depth left to fit new ones.  I had spare time last autumn/winter (2002), and got into it.  The weather in Hong Kong in November/December is perfect for this type of job, with very clear dry conditions (humidity below 50% much of the time) and temperatures in the low 20s (centigrade).  So I didn’t need to think about working under cover.  Job went as follows:

Click all images for full size

 Take off all the deck fittings, including the genoa tracks.

Rip off the old teak (a big screwdriver was enough).

 Remove all of the machine screws – some unscrewed, most needed a self-locking wrench, and some crumbled away (suggesting water penetration). 

Ream out all the screw holes one size oversize using a cordless drill (I did all the work on a swinging mooring).  Most holes brought up nice dry core (mahogany I think).  Perhaps 5% brought up wet core.  Most of these were on the foredeck.  These holes I drilled out another size. 

 Leave the deck to dry for about a week.  After this I could find no more wet core.

 Fill all the screw holes with epoxy (using syringes).  This was a multistage operation, as the epoxy soaks into the core. 

Now came the hard bit – scrape, scrape, scrape to remove all the old black goo under the teak, and sand, sand, sand to get all the filled screw holes flush with the deck.  This took about 7 days of really hard work. 

Mark out the patterns on the deck for the Treadmaster.  I did this using a scaled paper deck plan and lots of rectangles of paper to represent sheets of TM.  This let me work out to most efficiently use the TM.  The deck was then marked out more accurately.  I needed 10 sheets, and bought White Sand (the palest colour), to keep the heat down below decks.

 Sand sand sand again in between where the TM would go and bush paint with 2-pack white.

 Cut TM sheets and apply using waterproof contact cement.  This is nerve wracking, as you only get one chance to put it in the right place!  The trick was to apply one corner, lay down one side to another corner, then roll it out flat.  Then walk around on it to make the bond.

 Bolt all the deck fittings back on.  Relax and admire it.  Go sailing!

 The job took me getting on for two months, working 5/6 days a week.  I was single handed, and help would obviously have quickened this.  But I understand why boatyard bills are so much for this type of work.  It just needs lots of man-hours.  

A note on deck fittings – things like deck fills, chainplates etc I raised using little plinths of “Starboard” constructional plastic.  The thinking was to raise them above deck level to prevent water ingress.   You can see some of this on the photos.  I also added a stern anchor roller and a Bruce anchor chock on the foredeck.  On the toe rail, I cut the scuppers down to the new deck level (and added a few new ones to improve drainage).

 The photos were taken just after I finished (December 2002).  It still looks like that, and I’ve had no problems in the last year.  A side benefit was that rebedding all the deck fittings cured a few mysterious leaks.

 Fair winds – Nigel Evans, Hong Kong



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