CHEOY LEE OWNER’S MANUAL
for Cheoy Lee 38 Sloop
1983 Cheoy Lee R.
Richards 38, Perkins 4-108) Dealer Provided Owner Manual
Submitted by Eric Beauchamp aboard "Beaudacious"
We welcome you to the growing group of discerning yachtsmen who own and cruise their Cheoy Lee yachts. Argonaut Yacht Sales and Cheoy Lee take great pride in their tradition of quality products. We have sought to anticipate your needs and desires with respect to safety, convenience, styling, and engineering. We hope you enjoy you new Cheoy Lee and with you many hours of pleasant and carefree cruising.
The warranties covering this vessel are included with this Manual and attachments. Please read them carefully. They state in precise terms everything that is covered by these warranties.
The official Hull ID #, for the title and registration purposes, is molded into the hull at the transom just below the shear line and slightly to starboard of center. It consist of twelve characters (12) and appears on all hulls manufactured after October 31, 1972 as prescribed by the United States Coast Guard.
HOW TO USE YOUR CHEOY LEE OWNER’S MANUAL:
For ease of reference, the Manual has been sectionalized to group related information in a quick-to-locate form. You will find the answers to the most commonly asked questions about your Cheoy Lee in the "Questions & Answers" section located at the beginning of this manual.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS (REGARDING YOUR CHEOY LEE)
About Daily Operations:
Q: Are there any "break-in" precautions for my boat?
A: The initial break-in period of the engine is 25 to 50 operating hours. During this period, the engine should not be run at over 85% of full load and speed (approximately 2000 RPM). Nor should it be allowed to idle at no load for an extended period.
Q: What grade of diesel fuel should I use?
A: Number two (2) diesel or "amber colored" fuel should be used.
Q: What is my fuel tank capacity? How can I tell how much fuel I have?
A: Approximately 63 gallons in two tanks (43) in primary and (20) in secondary as noted with provided dipstick. *** I MEASURED 25 GALS. FOR PRIMARY TANK and 21 GALS. FOR SECONDARY TANK***(ESB)
Q: What is engine oil capacity?
A: The oil system capacity of your diesel is given in your engine manual. One quart less is required on oil changes (refer to maintenance schedule) as a quart will remain in the lines at all times and not return to the sump.
Q: What is my fresh water capacity?
A: Approximately one hundred (100) gallons. A dip stick sounder is provided.
Q: When should I check the battery fluid level?
A: About once a month and more frequently during hot weather or continuous running. Fluid level should be at the ring of the bottom of the filler well.
Q: What about the engine cooling water?
A: Your diesel engine cooling system incorporates a heat exchanger with the cooling water in a closed circuit using fresh water as a cooling medium. Water level in the header tank should be kept topped off to a level approximately one inch below the pressure cap sealing flange. A rust inhibitor additive has been added on startup (Nalcool 2000).
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
About Instruments and Controls:
Q: How should I set switches on electrical panel?
A: The following procedure is recommended:
NOTE: Please refer to SECTION D of this Manual for more detailed description of operation.
Q: How does the battery charger operate?
A: It operates on 110 VAC shore power and need not be switched off at the panel before starting the engine. Please refer to Section D of this manual.
Q: How do I start and stop the engine?
A: Before starting the engine, you should check the following:
Starting the Engine: Place engine gearshift in neutral gear-(vertical position). Advance throttle by moving handle forward. If engine is cold, engage the pre-heater (glow-plugs) by depressing the preheat switch and holding it there for 15 to 20 seconds. Then rotate the key fully clockwise to crank the engine. When the oil pressure comes up after engine starts, the warning light will go out. As soon as the engine starts, release the starter button and reduce speed to idle.
CAUTION: If the engine doesn’t start after several attempts, desist and refer to your engine manual. Prolonged cranking can damage the starter and may fill the water lift pump with salt water from the salt water pump which could then enter the engine exhaust outlet.
STOPPING THE ENGINE: Pull fuel cut-off knob (black handle) completely out. This will cause the engine to stop, then turn ignition key switch to the "OFF" position. Do NOT turn off the switch while the engine is running.
When engine is running, check the following:
Q: What does the engine warning lights tell me?
A: That the oil pressure is too low or the alternator is not charging? Shut down the engine and fined out why. A faulty sender could be responsible for showing warning lights. Refer to your Engine Manual "Trouble Shooting" section.
About the Interior:
Q: What should I do about the through-hull valves?
A: If your boat is going to be left unattended for a period of time, it is good practice to always close through-hull valves. Periodically opening and shutting valves assures operability.
Q: How often should I check propeller shaft stuffing box?
A: It is prudent to check during a period of continuous running to determine if it is too hot or too wet. Check frequently during break-in period., particularly after operation and before leaving the boat. Too "hot" would be so hot your could not touch the stuffing box without discomfort; to "wet" would be more than occasional (every 5 or 10 seconds) drips.
Q: How do I operate the hot and cold pressured water system?
A: Detailed description of the system will be found in Section E. However, with the system filled, which was done during commissioning, the pressure water system operates when the water pressure is turned on. Hot water is heated during the engine operation or electrically by shore power through the accessory control panel water heater switch.
Q: How do I operate the galley stove?
A: Refer to Galley Equipment Section F of this Manual; also Operating and Maintenance Instructions which are included in Owner’s folio.
About the Exterior:
Q: Is there anything special I should know about the care and maintenance of fiberglass?
A: Yes. Although fiberglass is known as comparatively "maintenance free" material, there are certain things you should know and do to insure good appearance and long life. This subject is covered in Section G of this Manual under Total Care Information. The care of you teak decks are also included in that section.
Q: What care and attention must I pay to the rigging?
A: The standing rigging is constructed of 316 grade stainless steel and is of the highest quality. The turnbuckles are cast in 304 stainless to Cheoy Lee’s own design are very substantial. The threads should be cleaned and lightly coated with Teflon grease annually (this was done during commissioning). Care should be paid that every turnbuckle has a safety pin in it and that these pins are bent back and taped so that there is no sharp edge showing.
Q: What is meant by "tuning" the mast? Must I "tune" my mast?
A: "Tuning" simply means adjusting. Your mast was adjusted when it was stepped. Aluminum and wooden masts are tuned differently, but in general the headstay and backstay should be quite tight, as well as the upper shrouds. The lower shrouds on a wooden mast are generally somewhat loose, and somewhat tight on aluminum masts (see detailed instructions in Section I).
SECTION A-1: Engine & Transmission
The Perkins diesel is a four cylinder, four cycle engine.
The basic engine is manufactured in England by Perkins and shipped to Hong Kong for installation. Perkins has a strong worldwide support organization. The Southern California distributor is the Charles Smith Co. of Irvine, CA. They, in turn, have a dealer network who furnishes the service and parts. Upon the launching and commissioning of your Cheoy Lee, your engine installation was inspected by a Perkins representative, and a "start-up" inspection performed which initiates your warranty.
During the initial break-in period of 25 operating hours, the engine should not be run at over 85% of full load and speed. At the end of this period, the engine can be run at maximum revs for limited periods of time, but the best cruising speed will be about 300 to 500 RPMs less than full RPMs. At this setting the engine will burn about 1.5 gallons per hour while moving your boat near hull speed in smooth water. Naturally, these two figures can only be estimates, as adverse winds and currents and cleanliness of bottom and propeller can produce considerable differences. After this initial "run-in" time, it is desirable to have a local diesel mechanic re-inspect the engine and change the oil, oil filter, and primary fuel filter. After his initial period, follow the recommendations in your Perkins Operator’s Manual for service periods.
The engine is fresh water cooled through a sea water heat exchanger with a fresh water storage tank above it. It is extremely important that this fresh water header tank be full within and inch or so of the top (to allow for expansion) and the cap on tight. Also, remember that the engine raw water pump DRIVE BELT SHOULD BE TIGHT AT ALL TIMES. When anti-freeze is added, it must be from the recommended list found in the Perkins Engine Manual to avoid possible damage to the water pump impeller. All other information is contained in your Perkins Engine Manual or the more detailed "Workshop Manual." Replacement parts should be ordered directly from Charles Smith Co., 16872 Milliken Ave., Irvine, CA 92713. Phone (714) 754-1924. Please remember to include you engine type with any requests.
Section A-2: Cooling, Exhaust and Ventilation System:
Engine fresh water is circulated through and cooled by means of a heat exchanger. This engine fresh water also circulates through the hot water heater, thereby heating water for shipboard use while engine is running. A thermostat is incorporated in the engine. Engine water temperature should be approximately 180 degrees F during low speeds and may increase to 200 degrees F. during full load conditions.
A sea water pump, belt driven at the forward end of the engine, picks up sea water through a special intake seacock. This seacock has an internal bladder built-in to prevent damage to the seawater impeller in the pump mounted on the engine. It should be periodically inspected by unscrewing the cap on the top of the seacock, and removing the cylindrical strainer. This seawater circulates through the engine’s heat exchanger, thus cooling the engine fresh water. This raw water is then injected into the exhaust hose just beyond the engine exhaust discharge port. The exhaust hose is connected to a fiberglass water lift muffler which acts as a backflow trap as well as a muffler. The pressure and velocity of the exhaust gasses carry the water up and over a loop and then overboard through the exhaust pipe. For this reason, prolonged cranking of the engine might fill the muffler with sea water (the engine pump pumps during cranking) to the point where it could enter the engine exhaust port and cause damage. The only other maintenance required of this system is occasional visual inspection of the pump and related hoses, hose clamps, and piping for possible water leaks.
Section A-3: Propeller Shaft:
The stainless steel propeller shaft runs from the engine coupling through a packing gland and the stern tube to the stern bearing. There is a copper line that injects water into packing gland to cool and lubricate the stuffing box packing. It is normal for the shat log to weep a few drops of water for lubrication and cooling. However, it should be tightened if a rapid dripping is observed, or loosened if it is too hot to touch.
Section A-4: Fuel System:
The fuel system consists of two integral fiberglass fuel tanks.
The tanks are properly vented. The fuel tank vent has a screen located in the outlet on the hull side and should be cleaned periodically to prevent it from clogging. The tank suction line is equipped with a shut-off valve.
The fuel pump by-pass returns fuel not used by the engine to the top of the tank. There is a drain valve located at the bottom of the tank. As the fuel injection pump consists principally of delicate parts which are precision finished, any foreign matter carried in the fuel will cause damage to the plungers and can lead to seizure. To prevent such trouble, a secondary filter is installed in the fuel line on the engine immediately before the injection pump. Additionally, there is a primary filter installed in the fuel line between the secondary filter and the tanks. This filter should be checked monthly and changed at least twice a year as preventative maintenance. An optional electrical fuel pump may be installed ahead of this filter to facilitate in refilling and purging the filter after a change. This pump is not required, but will greatly facilitate bleeding the filters after changing. The secondary filter serves as a safety filter in the event any contaminant passes the primary filter. This filter should be change annually unless the primary filter
Section A-4 (Fuel System Cont.)
becomes totally clogged; then it should be changed as a precaution when the primary is changed.
If the secondary fuel filter is drained for installation of a new element, the fuel system must be bled of air in the following manner:
MARINE SANITATION DEVICE (MSD)
Section B-1: Description:
Your Cheoy Lee is equipped with a USCG approved TYPE III MSD. This type MSD is usable in any harbor or waterway as it is capable of retaining 100% of toilet wastes. This system consist of a standard marine head, a holding tank of approximately twenty (20) gallon capacity, a macerator pump and associated inner-connecting plumbing. For the proper and legal operation it is necessary that you understand the system.
The system has two (2) modes of operation. One mode operates as a standard marine head and discharges the waster directly overboard. This is legal only when cruising in off-shore waters. If wastes are inadvertently discharged in a harbor or within three (3) miles of land, your are subject to a $5,000.00 fine. It is the responsibility of the owner-skipper to see that this does not occur. The prudent skipper may wish to guarantee against such an occurrence by removing the handle from the by-pass valve, which will be described in the Operation Section. The other mode of operation is designed to store the toilet wastes until such time as they can be removed legally. Your system is equipped with two (2) methods of legal discharge. Which will be described in the Operation Sections.
Section B-2: Operation of your MSD:
The marine head installed aboard your Cheoy Lee is of standard American manufacture and has been in widespread use for many years. It is simple to operate and quite reliable. To operate the head after use, the use should open the valve which is located on the right hand side of the head immediately under the pump handle by moving it to the proper position. This valve admits seas water into the bowl to assist in the flushing action. Flushing is accomplished by pumping the handle up and down until the toilet bowl is clean. At this point, the valve should be closed and pumping continued. You will notice a pack pressure force on the handle, but this is normal when the valve is closed and no rinse water can enter. Continue to pump until the bowl is empty. Leave the sea water valve closed. This is important to prevent possible flooding of the toilet when the boat is heeled.
As the head is pumped, the toilet wastes are discharged through a large diameter pipe which has two (2) directions of flow; one direction lead to the holding tank, the other directly overboard.
(SECTION B MARINE SANTATION Cont.)
The flow may be directed overboard (see Par. 2, Section B-1 for legality). To operate in this manner, it is necessary to close (turn clockwise) the 1 ½ " gate valve located directly behind the head and open the seacock. This seacock is another 1 ½ gate valve located behind the head. To open this seacock, the round handle should be rotated counter clockwise all the way.
The head discharge must be diverted into the holding tank when the vessel is in harbor. To do this, the 1 ½" valve located directly behind the head should be opened (turn counter-clockwise fully) and the thruhull valve closed. The prudent owner-skipper may wish to fully open the 1 ½" holding tank valve behind the head and remove the round painted handle. This handle could then be stored elsewhere on the vessel where the skipper would have control and assurance that an "accident" could not occur.
1. There are two (2) methods for discharge of holding tank. The first is designed for in harbor discharge at a Marine Sanitation Station. Most developed harbors have such a service available, usually at a marine fuel dock. The marine sanitation station attaches a suction hose to the deck fitting provided on your boat. The only valve to be concerned with during this operation is the thruhull valve provided for the macerator pump system to be described next. This macerator pump valve must be close so that the marine sanitation suction pump can develop a suction.
by Cheoy Lee. It is acceptable and legal to discharge toilet wastes at sea provided the vessel is in open off-shore waters more than three (3) miles from land. The macerator pump is a specially designed pump for this use. It has a large suction entrance equipped with stainless steel macerator blades which grind all wastes. There is a rubber impeller behind the macerator blades which pumps the liquified wastes overboard through a small diameter hose. To operate this pump open the small thruhull valve (handle parallel to the hose) and switch on the black switch maker "macerator pump" on switch panel.
Make sure the deck discharge fitting is tight and the macerator circuit breaker is "ON." The macerator pump makes a rather loud pitched sound until it picks up the waste; then, when pumping, the sound lowers in pitch and you can tell that the pump is pumping waste. If this change in sound does not occur in five (5) seconds, switch off the pump as running the pump dry will damage the rubber impeller and the pump will not pump.
If the pump will not pick up its prime and pump waster you should check the following:
If the pump will not pick up its prime and pump waste, you should check the following:
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
Q: Must I sue a toilet chemical in my MSD?
A: It is not necessary to use a chemical, but the addition of one "charge" after each discharging of the holding tank is advisable to reduce odor.
Q: Is special toilet tissue necessary?
A: No. However, the use of the special rapidly dissolving tissue will help prevent clogging and build-up in the tank. Do not use paper towel or other "wet strength" papers.
Q: Are there any special instructions I should know?
A: Just use normal caution to avoid introducing any foreign metal or non dissolving materials into the system. It is recommended that every skipper carry a spare kit for both the Jabsco Macerator Pump and the Wilcox-Crittenden Marine Head, W-C Kit # 1520.
Section C-1: Steering Controls:
The steering system designed by Cheoy Lee is a very positive and reliable system. It consists of a pedestal mounted steering wheel which rotates a bevel gear mounted on the steering shaft. This gear drives a matching gear mounted on a vertical shaft which in turn drives a geared quadrant which is mounted on the rudder shaft. This system requires little attention other than an annual squirt of grease in the zerk fittings mounted in several locations on the pedestal and shafts.
Note: Cheoy Lee provides an emergency steering tiller which may be attached through a stainless steel deck plate opening which is located under the teak grating near the pedestal. Inspect this fitting annually to insure that it can be opened quickly in the event of an emergency.
Section C-2: Rudder Installation:
The rudder foots in a rubber bearing inserted in a stainless steel casting attached to the fiberglass skeg molded into the hull aft of the keel. The skeg also provides bottom protection to the propeller. The rudder shaft penetrates the hull bottom and extends forward through a water tight tube and through a packing box.
Section C-3: Engine and Shift Controls:
The engine and shift or throttle and clutch controls are mechanically actuated by push-pull cables. They are comparatively trouble-free and require no maintenance. However, it is recommended that attachment linkage points on the engine be inspected annually for tightness.
Section D-1: Electrical System
The wiring diagram in this section must, in some cases, be augmented by the specific engine wiring diagram that appears I the engine Manual. Also note that the description on any special electrical accessory, i.e., electric bilge pump, will be found in another, more appropriate section, yet may appear in this section’s wiring diagram or the engine wiring diagram. In the event you make any electrical modifications to your boat, be sure that you follow the WIRING DIAGRAM or consult a competent MARINE ELECTRICIAN. Boat wiring is considerably different from house wiring due to the marine environment and other conditions not associated with houses.
Section D-2 : Basic Circuit Breaker Electrical System
The Master Power Control Panel features simplified controls and circuit breaker protection to permit safe and efficient operation of your boat’s electrical equipment. All panel components have been carefully selected for their proven performance in marine applications. Electrical current is directed from two (2) each banks of twelve (12) VDC heavy duty batteries through the Master Power Control Panel for engine starting and accessory loads. There is one large selector switch on this panel. This switch selects which battery bank will be used for the loads throughout the vessel including which battery will be used for engine starting (both batteries [banks] may be selected for cold weather engine starting). The engine alternator will re-charge only the battery bank(s) selected for engine starting and running. CAUTION! It is permissible to switch from battery to battery (bank to bank) , but NEVER to "OFF" with the engine running.
Section D-3: Battery Condition Indicator (if supplied)
This type of "indicator" or "meter" is technically referred to as a "Suppressed Zero Voltmeter." Not that calibrations do not start at zero, but provide a full scale reading from 8 or 10 to 16 volts, depending on the meter. Below 8 or 10 volts the battery charge is so low that terminal voltage readings are meaningless. There is a toggle switch near the meter that will switch the meter to one or the other battery (bank) to measure its charge. Note, however, that if the large selector switch is in the "both" or "all" position, the meter will read both regardless of the toggle switch position and not give a proper indication.
Approximate voltage range interpretations are as follows:
Engine NOT Below 11--- Very low battery charge
Running or 11 – 12 --- Low battery charge
at Idle 12 – 13 --- Well-charged battery
Engine 13.0 – 13.5 – Low or no charge rate
Running 13.5 -- 15.5 – Alternator & Voltage Regulator OK
Above 15.5 (or above)-Voltage Regulator out of adjustment
It is important for you to understand that the reading on the Battery Condition Indicator Dial is indexed from the toggle test switch position regardless of the master switch position unless it is in the "BOTH" position. When the Master Switch is in the "BOTH" position then the Battery Condition Indicator Dial will indicate BOTH BATTERY CONDITONS NO MATTER WHICH WAY THE TOGGLE TEST SWITCH IS INDEXED. Before activating the electrical system, check the condition of both battery banks individually and then select the STRONGEST BATTERY BANK FOR SHIPBOARD USE. Index the Master Switch to the strong battery, and then start your engine. Check the instrument panel ammeter to assure that charging is normal.
Use the Master Switch in "BOTH" positions ONLY for cold weather or when both battery banks are low, or for "top off" charging when both battery banks are near full charge. When both banks are completely charged, transfer to either bank, keeping one battery bank always in reserve.
The battery charger supplied as standard equipment with your vessel is of the fully automatic electronic type. It is directly connected to each battery and has special diode isolators built in which allow it to charge each or both battery banks as required without allowing the battery banks to discharge into one another. There is a circuit breaker on the panel which activates the charger and the charger may be left on at all times.
REMEMBER: NEVER MOVE THE MASTER SWITCH TO "OFF" WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING OR THE ALTERNATOR DIODES MAY BE BURNED OUT.
Section D-4: Operation of Circuit Breaker Electrical System Accessory loads my be selected as desired by indexing the appropriate panel breaker "ON" so current may flow from the switched battery bank to the accessory. A branch circuit overload will cause the accessory circuit breaker to "trip" i.e., the breaker will automatically open the circuit and its handle will flip to the "OFF" position. After correction of the fault, the breaker may be manually indexed "ON." The RUNNING lights switch activates the red and green lensed sidelights and the white stern light aft; the white bow light forward (20 point light) has its own switch (BOW LIGHT) and is used only while under power at night (in conjunction with RUNNING).
The cabin lights have their own individual switches, but must be activated first by the circuit breakers on the Master Power Control Panel. If the cabin lights begin dimming it
is a warning that the battery bank immediately needs charging. For this reason, you should NEVER leave your engine battery bank selector switch on "BOTH" when engine is not running or you may run down both batteries, even though the accessory load selector switch is on only one battery. Remember that you have a wet cell type battery whose charge and water level must be checked at least once a month. If your boat is to unused or stored for extended periods of time, it is advisable to remove the batteries and store them in a warm, dry location.
Periodically, check all wires, connections, and terminals for loose connections which may cause loss of ground, sparks, or power loss. This is especially important with the engine wires. When leaving the boat, INDEX THE MASTER SWITCH TO "OFF."
FRESH WATER SYSTEM
Section E-1: Fresh Water System:
Two fiberglass 50 gallon Fresh Water Tanks or One 100 gallon FW tank are/is located under the settee berth. The tank(s) are fitted with an opening fitting in the top to allow dipsticking. These tanks have individual fills for each deck marked "WATER," and vents in the hull with screens. There are also drain valves and feed valves at the bottom of each tank. It is recommended that only one feed valve be open at a time to prevent water from transferring to the low side when heeling during sailing, thereby causing a list.
The fresh water pump is a 12 VDC unit and has both a circuit breaker and switch on the control panel. This pump maintains pressure on the system by cycling on at 15 PSI and off at 25 PSI. This pressure switch is a small red plastic box mounted directly on the pressure pump, and may occasionally stick. Sometimes a sharp rap will cure the problem, but a spare should be carried. A note to remember is if during quiet periods you notice brief periods of short cycling of the pump, you may have a slow leak in the water line.
NOTE: It is advisable to turn off the water pressure pump when leaving the boat to assure that flooding could not result from a burst water hose and the water pressure pump pumping the entire water supply into the bilge.
Section E-2: Hot & Cold Pressure Water System with Shower
The hot water system is operated by either running the engine or from the 110 VAC shore power system through a circuit breaker and switch on the Accessory Control Panel maker "Water Heater." On some water heaters there is also a switch on the unit itself. DO NOT TURN ON UNLESS THERE IS WATER IN THE SYSTEM AS THE HEATING ELEMENT WILL BE BURNED OUT IF THE TANK IS EMPTY.
When filling the system for the first time, or refilling an empty system, you will have to bleed the air out of ALL WATER LINES. This is accomplished in the following manner:
(Section E - Fresh Water System Cont.)
The pressure pump is a 12 VDC unit that will start automatically when the pressure drops to 18 PSI and will continue running until the pressure has been brought up to 25 PSI. If the pump starts running continuously you are:
The shower is plumbed to the fresh water system and operates similarly. The shower (and ice box) drain into a sump tank located under the salon sole. The electric as well as the manual bilge pump is plumbed to discharge the sump tank water. There are two special valves connected to the pumps, with a lever type handle which enables you to select whether the pump pumps the bilge OR the sump. The lever should be oriented toward the line that leads to the sump or bilge, whichever you wish to pump.
Section F-1: Galley Stove
Your Cheoy Lee is equipped with a three burner Gas Systems Propane Stove and Oven. Please read completely the manual provided for the safe and efficient operation of this system. As an additional safety precaution, you stove is equipped with an Marinetics Safety Switch. To operate the stove you must first turn on the valve located on the propane tank and then turn on the Marinetics switch in the galley. Remember, propane is heavier than air and thus could accumulated in the bilge in the event of a leak or unattended flames. PLEASE USE CAUTION IN THE OPERATION OF THIS SYSTEM.
Section F-2: Ice Box
Your Cheoy Lee comes from the factory equipped with a well insulated ice box. It is designed with both a top loading access hatch and a front opening door. This box has been converted to the Technautics engine driven compressor. Please refer to the operating instructions provided by Technautics.
TOTAL CARE INFORMATION
Section G-1: Fiberglass Surfaces:
The glossy outer surfaces of your laminated fiberglass boat is known as the "gelcoat," a polyester resin into which coloring pigments and weathering retardants have been incorporated. It should be hosed with fresh water after every outing and routinely washed with a good detergent. Use a sponge on the smooth surfaces, while a stiff deck brush will be helpful of the non-skid surfaces, followed by more fresh water to avoid streaking the topsides. Do not use abrasive cleaners as they will rapidly dull the gelcoat surface. A chamois should be used to wipe off smooth surfaces and windows to prevent water spots.
At least once a year (preferably every six months) the smooth gelcoat surfaces should be waxed and polished with a good automotive wax or boat wax that is especially formulated for fiberglass surfaces. Color in gelcoat, as in any dye exposed to direct sunlight, tends to fade, dull, or chalk, and may require heavier buffing to bring back the original luster. For power cleaning use a light abrasive cleaner such as Mirror Glaze #1, while a heavier rubbing compound, such as DuPont #7 , may be use when polishing by hand. After buffing, wax and polish all surfaces EXCEPT the non-skid areas.
Regardless of the amount of care lavished on your boat, occasional scratches, surface checks or cracks, and small gouges are bound to appear. It is best to discuss the proper course of action with you local dealer or a professional who is SKILLED IN THE REPAIR OF FIBERGLASS BOATS.
Section G-2: Woodwork:
The exterior and interior trim is teak, one of the most durable and decorative of all hardwoods. Teak must be maintained to keep it from discoloring. A generous coat of "Teak Wonder" sealer has been applied on the teak decks after commissioning. The teak decks need only be washed weekly and given another coat of "Teak Wonder" monthly. After several months it may be desirable to remove all the oil with "Teak Brite" and re-oil with "Teak Wonder."
CAUTION: Never use steel wool on your boat. The steel particles break off and cause rust spots that are extremely hard to remove.
Section G-3: Stainless Steel Fittings:
Most of the fittings on the exterior of your Cheoy Lee are stainless steel. These are cast by Cheoy Lee in their foundry of type 304 stainless. This is the most common grade stainless and is the same grade used in household knives and forks. It is cast by the investments casting (or "lost wax’) process which produces a finish which does not require polishing. However, during this casting process, come impurities rise to the surface and will cause spotting after exposure to salt air. These spots may easily be rubbed off with any good polish. These impurities may be permanently removed by a process known as "passavating," which involves an acid treatment. Cheoy Lee has found that by brushing phosphoric acid on the fittings on a warm day and leaving it for an hour or so before washing it off, most of the impurities are permanently removed.
SPARS, RIGGING, AND HARDWARE
One of the most rewarding activities connected with sailing is tinkering with your boat’s rigging and hardware. The best skippers always seem to be looking aloft at the sails and then thinking about new fittings, or new ways of improving old ones. In this way, a person acquires a thorough understanding of how and why every piece of sailing equipment works, plus how to repair and maintain it. As sailors, we too are constantly trying to achieve better and easier boat performance, thus the gear that we install is constantly being improved. What we hope to accomplish in this section is to give you the background information for setting-up you boat in the beginning for normal sailing conditions.
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD ANY OF THE RIGGING BE SET-UP "BAR TIGHT.’ FOR ALL SAILING CONDITIONS WE RECOMMEND THAT THE MST BE VERTICAL AND IN COLUMN, WITH THE RIGGING "FIRM." IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT A KNOWLEDGEABLE PERSON WHO UNDERSTANDS THIS CONCEPT OVERSEES THE INITIAL TUNING OF TH MAST AND RIGGING.
You should be able to stand facing the mast, reach out and pull on any stay and see the mast move in that direction. With a light pull or push by hand at chest height, this dockside starting point will have both says of equal tension with about 1" to 2" of play in the uppers and 2’ to 3" of play in the lowers. The backstay and jib stay should be of equal tension and have about 1" of play. If the mast is stepped on deck, the rigging will be tighter than a mast stepped on the keel. With double lowers, the after lowers will be looser than the forward lowers by about 1" of play. Some of the newer tall rigs have intermediate shrouds, the tension of which should be between that of the uppers and lowers.
The final tuning of the mast should take place while sailing to windward in a medium breeze of 8 to 10 knots. Sighting along the backside of the mast from deck level will indicate what further turnbuckle adjustment needs to be made to the WINDWARD side of the mast. The top of the mast SHOULD NOT "hook" to windward. In a medium breeze, the mast should be straight and this is normally accomplished by taking up on the lower shrouds. ALWAYS TACK, and then make the turnbuckle adjustments on the now LEE or slack side of the mast and sight the mast on the new, windward side, for further corrections. After a few tacks, the mast should be straight! Secure the rigging by inserting cotter keys into the turnbuckles, spread them open and cover with tape to prevent any snags.
Special attention should be given to the initial stretch of the rigging, especially after the first sail in a strong breeze. In windy conditions, it is actually desirable to have the mast head "fall-off" slightly to leeward, giving the mast a smooth, even curve from head to deck. In a tall rig, the intermediates play an important part in controlling the upper mast section and this will be especially noticeable in stronger wind conditions. After a few more sails in strong breezes, the rigging should be checked again for tune as additional stretch will occur.
When racing, the backstay may be tightened to compensate for the extra forward loading applied by the Genoa and to prevent excessive sag in the headstay which can spoil the shape of the Genoa. At the conclusion of the race it is very important to "slack-off" the amount you "took-up" on the backstay turnbuckle, as this avoids setting up unnecessary strains on the hull and rig. Since you want to keep the mast straight while racing, you will probably tighten up on the jibstay first so when the backstay is "slacked -off," the masthead will hook slightly forward. When the backstay is tightened up, this "hook" will disappear and the mast will be straight.
Too much tension on the backstay is probably the prime reason for mast and rigging failure. It has been found that tension in the backstay can increase 150% to 200% due to the wind load on the headsail and dynamic loading due to heavy seas.
Note: Most cruising sailors compromise by setting the headstay and the backstay reasonably tight and accepting more headstay sag. This alleviates the need to tighten and loosen the backstay before and after each sail.
The trend in modern yacht design has been to smaller main sails and larger jibs or "Genoas." Usually any sail that overlaps the mast is considered a Genoa and is identified by the amount of this overlap. Thus, if the distance from the face of the mast to the bow ("J" on the sail plan) is 10 feet and a line 15 feet distant (LP) was drawn parallel to the headstay, then any Genoa with a CLEW on that line would be a "150% Genoa."
What is extremely important to realize is that these large sails can concentrate very high loads over a very small area, hence the gear must have high safe working loads. For example: in 25 knots of wind, a Genoa is subjected to a pressure of about 4 pounds per sq. ft., or ONE TON for a 500 sq. ft. Genoa.
Since the above load could easily be transmitted to one spot at any given time, ALL of the Genoa Gear has been designed and prepared to accept those extreme loads. The track is thru bolted and all blocks oversized. All other fittings are of the best possible design and strength FOR THE JOB INTENDED. Most fitting failures occur from improper usage, usually by trying to use a light or cheap fitting instead of the proper factory recommended one. If loads are expected to come close to the SAFE WORKING LOAD of the block, then the next size larger MUST BE USED. Please remember that if a line turns back on itself, like all halyards, spinnaker sheets, guys, and jib top sheets, then the load on that block is almost DOUBLED.
With the trend to larger Genoas, the spinnakers also get larger and need larger and stronger gear to handle them. As with the Genoa Gear, our Spinnaker Gear has been designed and fabricated to meet the extreme loads that this beautiful, but sometimes frustrating, sail can produce. While not included in the Spinnaker Gear, the optional Reaching Strut is a necessity on boats over 30’ and could well be used on smaller ones. In beam reaching conditions, when the pole is up against the headstay, an unnatural load is put on the mast. , stay, and pole. The reaching strut allows for a better "angle-of-pull" for the afterguy, pulling the pole off the headstay and thus reducing the loads to a safer point. This also eliminates chafe of the afterguy on the upper shroud. To save wear and tear, read up on spinnakers and then have a couple of experienced friends join you for the first couple of spinnaker drills. Most cruising sailors decide to forgo the frustrations of racing spinnakers and choose the newly developed "poleless" cruising spinnakers such as Hood’s MPS or North’s Gennaker. These are nearly as efficient as spinnakers, and much more versatile and easy to use.
Two methods of mainsail reefing, roller and cringle (jiffy reefing), are in common use and their pros and cons could be discussed forever. On boats that have their mainsheet on the end of the boom. There may be a roller reefing mechanism contained in the gooseneck fitting.
With mid-boom sheeting, most people will use the "Cringle Reef System (Jiffy Reef)," which is the system supplied with your Cheoy Lee. This system is quite fast, and provides better "sail shape control" than does roller reefing and is the preferred system today. It is a very simple (therefore reliable) system. It consists of a line from a cleat on the boom near the mast which leads along the boom to a point a foot or so from the end, where it passes through a turning block and leads upward to a cringle part way up the leech of the mainsail. It is then led through the cringle and back down to the boom and underneath the boom to a terminus on the opposite side of the boom (or simply tied around the boom). When you decide to reef, you go to the mast and pull this line (having the helmsman easing the mainsheet at the same time) until the boom is hoisted up to the cringle. Then you secure the reefing line on the cleat provided and ease off the mainsail halyard until the boom is down to the proper horizontal position. The mainsheet should be tightened as the mainsail is lowered.
BOOM VANG AND MASTHEAD FLY
These two dissimilar but important optional items should be on every sailboat. It’s pretty hard to sail if you don’t know the wind direction and a mast head fly will always be pointing in the direction the wind is coming FROM. A quick glance aloft will instantly tell you the proper trim for your sails or course change, especially when going downwind when you don’t want to gibe.
This brings us the boom vang which will hold the boom horizontal when "off-the-wind," thus keeping the mainsail flat and from bouncing around in light winds an/or a chop. This is an added safety feature, since if an accidental gibe were to take place the boom would swing over without lifting up and allowing the leech of the mainsail to catch on the old, leeward spreader. Keep the boom vang slack when going to weather and, when "off-the-wind," set it up tight enough to flatten the mainsail without allowing the leech to "cup" or "hook" inwards. It is highly recommended that this piece of equipment be added to your boat’s inventory. Your marine store salesman can recommend the proper size and "purchase" for your boat.
Section I-1: Engine Spares
The diesel engine in your boat is extremely reliable and will deliver many years of trouble-free service with only a minimum of care and attention. However, there are a few components that are more likely to require replacement than others, and are of the nature such that the owner can perform the necessary work with only the normal tools aboard. These parts are itemized below as a LIMITED RANGE CRUISING KIT. Other parts that are seldom required but would be difficult to obtain in a foreign port and would probably require the service of a diesel mechanic to install may be ordered from your dealer as an EXTENDED CRUISING KIT.
Ordinarily it is not practical to perform major engine repairs on a small vessel at sea, but such parts as hoses, vee belts, filter elements, etc. which may be serviced and which, upon failure, could cause engine failure, should certainly be carried aboard. For this reason the following list of spares is suggested:
Section I-2: Misc. Spare Parts